Friday, October 30, 2009

roads home through edo and otherwheres

The second day of Nikko, we woke up at 6:00 AM to beat the rush to the onsen and relax before breakfast. I don't really know but the modesty issue is so different from the way it is in America. There's more of a looser feel to the rigors of society here in places (ie. for onsens where people strip naked), but people in public frown on people showing too much skin or being loud on the train. In the States, it feels so different to see people dressed in barely anything and yak-yaking away on public transportation or spaces (I'm guilty of this too, so don't go about pointing fingers), but yet there's still this hush-hush tone when it comes to nakedness. Either way, the onsen was super relaxing for the morning, and we stayed in there for a good hour or so before breakfast.

The breakfast was served buffet style, and the best part was there was both Japanese traditional breakfast AND Western breakfast. We kind of made a beeline toward the Western breakfast since most of us hadn't had a proper Western breakfast since we've been in Japan. There was scrambled eggs, bacon (albeit not the crispy kind), sausauge (admittedly, hot dog style- not breakfast), fresh sunny-side up eggs, toast, croissants, danishes, etc. We kind of went crazy and it was all-you-can-eat... so I went back to the warm croissants and the shu-mai fairly often.



We got back on the bus after cleaning our stuff up and and headed toward Nikko Edo Wonderland, a themepark based on the Edo period of Japan. It was pretty interesting and had a bunch of live shows and stages, where people re-enacted scenes and whatnot. We had our fun with shooting bows and throwing shuriken :D. We had a small lunch but sooner than later, we had to leave. From there, we went to go pick up some souvenirs (omiyage) for friends at home (that is, Yokohama; it's too expensive to ship stuff back every time I go somewhere). I bought some stuff for folks and snagged a soft-serve cone, which tasted of milk rather than vanilla, which is sort of the standard for froyo in Japan. Still tasty!










The ride home was fairly uneventful, and I mostly passed out. We arrived back at YNU where the school festival was starting up. A bunch of the clubs hadn't set up or had called it an early night, but I picked up some yakitori from the Kendo club (it was super tasty and I forgot to take pictures of it)... After that, it was mostly just sitting back down in my room, unpacking, cleaning up some more and then crashing on my (not-so) lovely bed.

a vision of the north in all its splendor

On Thursday morning, we left for the Nikko area, about an hour or two north of Tokyo (so about three hours from Yokohama). Of the JOY students, Mike, Lucy, Kim, John, Sri, Linus, Andreas, Han, Kimberly, Becky, Regina, Kirsty, and Aileen went as well. The bus was standard charter bus, sans the restroom in the back, so pit-stops were an unfortunate necessity. We piled into the back of the second bus, surprised when the front half of the bus was already filled up (by mostly Chinese ryuugakusei). Each of the buses had a "stewardess" and both of them, for both of the buses, for nearly the entirety of the trip, never stopped talking. They mostly blathered about in Japanese about the scenery, about wherever we were passing, and in between their infrequent breaths, managed to get zoned out by everyone. We all received snack bags and a bottle of packaged green tea (which the label called "oishii" but sadly was far from it). They were supposed to last two days... well. Some parts of the bag lasted 'til the second day.



After a pit-stop (where I bought a ham-mayo bread and a melon-pan), we eventually got to lunch, which was very traditional Japanese. It was so traditional, in fact, that many of us just kind of sat there wondering either A. how to eat it or B. why we would eat it. After trying a little bit of everything and not liking anything except the coffee jelly with cream, we were escorted off to the back of the facility where we had had lunch. We were getting the opportunity to make yakimono, or rather fired-things. We were given a slab of clay, and given basically free reign. I went with a slightly more complex plate (it's for you, Mom!). Unfortunately, they're supposed to come back to the ISC in about a month. I guess it's fair because they have 80+ to fire and glaze and then ship back to Yokohama.





We left the pottery lesson with a bit more energy now that we were actually doing things and took a nice little drive toward Tosho-gu, the mausoleum/shrine where Toshogawa Ieyasu is enshrined/tombed. It's part of the Nikko Shrines and Temples bit of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Although we arrived later in the evening (and more or less fairly close to closing), the light was pretty dang amazing for pictures and what-not.













Breathless and tired of stairs (the Japanese love their stairs, I tell you), we got back on the bus on our way to the hotel for the night. It's not exactly in Nikko (it's in Kinugawa, which really isn't that much further). As we pull up into the driveway of the hotel, we freak out (in excitement) at the size and the quality of the hotel. It's classy, and from what we heard, the dinner that we were about to eat, was a very nice meal with nomi-hodai (all you can drink). John, Sri, Mike, Linus, Han, and I had a room with a guy named Yansen Peng but he bailed on us in favor of hanging out with more of the Chinese guys (which is fair). We ended up with the annoying Indian guy named Chandra (everyone dislikes him; he's rude and incredibly people-stupid). We dressed up in yukatas, which was a really nice touch for the stay in the hotel. Linus and I went down to the onsen and relaxed until we were joined by Mike and Han. It was a nice dip and decompress before dinner.




Dinner itself was amazing. We were seated in rows with small tables for each person, and when I examined what we were having, I lit up. It was a proper kaiseki ryori for the evening, and it was delicious (mostly). There was pickled cabbage with onions (which I didn't eat on principle), glass noodles in a light dressing (which was refreshing). There was tempura shrimp, onion, and mushroom with its dipping sauce. We also had a cold soup of daikon radish in an onion-y broth (which I also didn't eat on principle). After that, there was soba noodles with onions and a light salty broth. We had some table-sized burners for some steak, carrots, and mushrooms. There was also a burner for a soup of fish, chicken, bok choi, and enoki mushrooms. In between those, and more toward the end of the course list was a personal pot for steaming rice (which at the end of everything I was too full to eat). There was also a small seasonal sampler, as well as sashimi of salmon, tuna, and tofu. Midway through the meal, we also got a chawan-mushi, a savory egg custard and at the end, we got a nice clear broth with some tofu.








Afterward, the ryuugakusei just partied and enjoyed ourselves, especially considering how nice the hotel was... and that's the first day. More on the second tomorrow :)